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That would be beadwork or embroidery,” says Beverley Birks, a vintage dealer and exhibition curator who’s worked with 1920s clothing for nearly 50 years. “The garçon look was in, so while the ’20s showed a lot of body, the emphasis was not on the bust or the hips. The skirts were short, but they only rose to knee-length. They didn’t rise beyond there.” So much for Marilyn’s flirty hemline. It turns out that what we think about flappers says more about what we like now than what women actually wore then. This relationship existed well before Baz Luhrmann’s 2013 adaptation of The Great Gatsby ignited the current wave of Roaring ’20s mania. It predates the 1973 film, too, and the 1960s revival of ’20s silhouettes. It started, like many of pop culture’s most cherished ideas about the past, with the golden age of film. “Hollywood began mining the 1920s in the 1950s, and order to make it work, they adapted the costuming of the period to look more like what people were actually wearing in the ’50s,” explains Jeanine Basinger, a film historian and the chair of Wesleyan University’s film department. The period setting, Basinger says, was less about what the ’20s were and more about what they weren’t: post-WWII.
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